Tag: Lara Mantell

WSA Sustainable Luxury Textiles

We were invited to Winchester School of Art to deliver bespoke training, advising on the set up of their sustainable natural dye-print labs. The BA Textiles department are taking the hugely exciting leap of transitioning from chemical to natural dyestuffs. We taught the staff how to forage for dye-plants (handily next to a park, and water meadows), and then how to make natural dyes into coloured vats and print-pastes. We developed techniques for them to use when teaching their new cohort of students; testing new plant colours, designing with natural dyes, and exploring warp and weave dyeing process.

An inventive and immersive 3-days; collecting plants for experimential colour making, printing onto naturally dyed warps with modifiers, and playfully dyeing and painting onto wood.

Armenian narrative. 3.

Second week. We are excited by blue made from purple aubergines peel. With the students we discuss designing a collaborative silk (avocado dip) square, complemented by individual stripes of the super-springy wool (pomegranate dip?)

Evening was magical-intensity, swimming in a turquoise-mosaic pool, soaring above the city, with a thunderstorm reigning the sky. TUMO’s summer party was at a house perched atop the Cascades. Hidden, accessed via tiny lanes, in a harried taxi. The Armenian style house, opened onto a terrace, where we ate gazpacho and traditional dishes. The pool enticing-beckoning in the pre-storm swelter. The hostess conjured up towels and the most stylish of black swim cossies (because who brings bathers to a dinner party). Succulent and wooed by the splendour we swam until rain-lashed lightning drove us from the water. We left the party via a tiny iron staircase, into the wet-shiny marble Cascades darkness. That night I dreamt of a wedding 25 years ago, in an ancient Italian villa, swimming, and dining with friends. Yerevan is elegant, charming, and hospitable.

Morning, and to the museum of Martiros Saryan, Armenians favourite artist, and increasingly mine too. Coloured mountains, dancers, flowers; our Yerevan-TUMO colours pay homage to him. I brought a book of his costume sketches, similar to Leon Basque. Rivals?

Flo found Armenian mulberries in a park; intense, smaller than uk ones. Similar to those found in Cévennes, a traditional silk producing region of France. Flo notices more dye in the cityscape than I do, the too-fast-walker. Sonia, in a genius-move, suggested designing the collaborative scarf as a game of consequences; with five mini-sketches passed around the table. Voting concluded, and by evening we had hills around the edges, and an amorphous peace sign inserted into the pattern. Tomorrow brings the flowers.

Days are sliding away from the two weeks that felt so long. Flo and I printed morning homages to the colours, artists and architecture of Armenia. Flo concentrates on the enticing shadows falling through the yellow blinds, I interpret Saryan’s landscape.

The students finished the silk with a snaking iron-aubergine print; a dance of print action captured by Mariam. We steam the silk, revealing just how far the students have progressed this week. The steamer is a low-tech miracle; we are experts in turning basic equipment into a print lab. Still blessing the metal screens and squeegees that we squeezed into our cases from London.

The hot-hot gg took us through the heavily congested city, no seatbelts, driver on the gas. We had a meeting with Hayk Oltaci, president and founder of Woolway. A rambling workshop for naturally dyeing heritage carpets and tapestries. Huge vats of mordanting yarns, and large dusty bowls of local madder root. Dorothy and Flo brought woven blankets made of new wool; the Armenia word for scratchy translates as “bitten by the yarn”. Hayk made us Lemonade, and told us his story. Armenian heritage, born in Istanbul, and recently reloacated his business to Yerevan after living in New York for 30 years.

Last studio day, and exhibition day! We are excited by the students achievements, hoping for a return invite, to this cultured, generous place.

On tour: TOAST London

On tour! Swooping through London, revelling in the clarity of a glorious sunshine-day. We wended bikes through the streets, to view our work adorning the TOAST store windows.

Bikes jostled by traffic in thronging Hampstead streets. Gathering speed on the train, then off, and cycling past a glam Islington wedding.

Dropping into the narrow streets of Shoreditch; the Toast store has a cool green garden. 

The afternoon meandered a tranquil route towards Soho, in a happy sustainable journey across London. 

Love Toast Mayfair, the huge modern windows displaying fifteen panels. All the colourways, jaunty juxtapositions, prints vying for attention.  

To have our work adorning shop windows in London’s iconic shopping districts; Kings Rd, Soho, Mayfair.

The printed panels can be seen in 23 Toast stores across England, London, and New York, throughout the month of May. The bike’s will not pedalo across the Atlantic.

TOAST: Ceres

A Lightness of Being.

A collaboration with TOAST for their seasonal concept.

Ceres designed, printed, and curated panels in natural dyes to hang in the windows of all TOAST stores.

Mesmerised by two-hundred-and-thirty-one panels of criss-crossing soft-shades. 

Each stripe of colour tells a story. Provenance is a tour of Western Europe; Burgundy oak, Brittany bark, London indigo.

Nettles. Fresh, just unfurling, from a rooftop garden, gently soaked for several days. Mixed with farmers marke red onions skins for deeper green. Or, Brixton weld from Flo’s garden for a vibrant shot of Spring.

Color of remembrance; madder roots from Susan Dye, of Rainbow’s colours. Orange transposing to pink, beautiful colours for the soul. Spanish pomegranates, holding images of sunshine and friends. Whiff of fermentation as we print. 

We are immersed in our designs, slowly emerging from overlapping colours. Some sliding into peripheral consciousness, others boldy announce themselves.

Each panel unique. There is a longing to display them all together, festoon, to meander through tranquil swathes of lime, tangerine, cherry and cucumber. 

Words: by Ceres.

Images: header, 1, 2, 3, and 5, by Lauren Maccabee for TOAST.

Image: 4, Ceres.